There’s so much to love about gel nail polish. It dries quickly, lasts for weeks and rarely chips. And while it’s on, your nails feel almost indestructible. But we’re guessing you’ve always known, deep down, that curing gel under a lamp couldn’t be the healthiest way to decorate your digits.
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It’s time to face facts: If you treasure your talons, you should probably avoid gel nail polish.
We talked to dermatologist Chey Ranasinghe, MD, to learn why that is and what precautions you should take if you’re determined to get ‘gelly’ with it.
The difference between gel polish and standard nail polish, besides formulation, is the application process. The two products usually look identical, but while you simply wait for regular nail polish to dry on its own — a process that can take over half an hour, depending on the brand and type you’re using — gel nail polish cures (quick dries) under a specialized UV (ultraviolet) or LED (light-emitting diode) lamp in 60 to 90 seconds. Once it’s cured, you’ve got yourself a manicure that you can’t smudge or chip the minute you walk out the door. And it should stay put for the next two to three weeks.
Sounds great, right? In some ways, it is. But just because gel polish looks good doesn’t mean it’s good for you.
There are several different issues with gel nail polish. Let’s start with the concern that’s generating the biggest buzz for years now: The elevated risk of skin cancer the curing process poses.
Regardless of the lamp being used, the process of curing a gel manicure involves repeated exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which causes skin aging and DNA damage that can lead to cancer. Just like there’s no such thing as a risk-free tanning bed — which also uses UVA light — there’s no such thing as a risk-free nail lamp. So, while you may have read that LED lamps are a safer option, they still emit UV radiation.
That may not seem very worrisome in and of itself, but it’s important to remember how much you use your hands — and how rarely you think to protect them. “We already get regular UV exposure while holding the steering wheel when we drive,” Dr. Ranasinghe notes. “Adding on the cumulative bursts of UV exposure that happen during the curing process of gel manicures increases UV-induced skin damage and risk.”
Dr. Ranasinghe puts it simply: “The less UV exposure you give your hands, the better. Studies right now say the carcinogenic risk is low, but it’s still there!”
Even if the curing process didn’t involve UV exposure, it still wouldn’t be the best option for your nails. There are a lot of chemicals in gel nail polish that can spell all kinds of trouble for your hands. Want to go back to naked nails? Getting there could be a problem, too!
If you’re ready to break up with your curing lamp, there’s good news: There are lots of different alternatives out there. Of course, they all have their own pros and cons, so you’ll have to decide what’s most important to you. Among the options available to you:
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Dr. Ranasinghe’s a realist. She knows that sometimes, like before a long trip, a gel manicure might be your best option. Her suggestion: Instead of getting a gel manicure every two to three weeks, do it a few times a year for special occasions. It’s important to give your nails a break.
Here are a few things you can do before and during your gel manicure to make it as safe as possible:
Most nail salons don’t offer sunscreen as part of their gel manicure services, so bring your own and ask that they apply it — or apply it yourself — before the nail-painting process begins.
When it comes to chilling out under curing lamps, you should opt for an SPF 30 or higher mineral sunscreen that contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Mineral sunscreens, also known as physical barrier sunscreens, are much faster-acting than their chemical counterparts. You can also purchase UV-protective fingerless gloves, which expose your nail bed while keeping the rest of your hand protected.
We know, we know, cuticles are rarely cute. But that clear skin at the bottom of your nail serves an important function.
“Your cuticle is your body’s natural barrier to protect your nail from infection — don’t remove it!” Dr. Ranasinghe urges. Whether you’re DIYing it or going to a nail salon, cutting or pushing cuticles is always a no-no.
If anything, you should be giving your cuticles extra care when you have gel polish on. Moisturize your hands and nails and apply cuticle oil every day. That will help keep the nail strong underneath the gel and reduce the risk of your nail peeling when the polish is removed.
If you’ve ever had a gel manicure before, you know that it can be hard to resist the temptation to peel it off — which is one of the worst things you can possibly do to your nails.
Instead, Dr. Ranasinghe says, you should have the gel polish removed by your manicurist.
“If you’re removing gel polish yourself,” Dr. Ranasinghe says, “rough up the surface of the gel with an emery board, soak cotton balls in acetone and apply them directly to the nail bed. Be sure the cotton doesn’t touch the surrounding skin, as that is very drying and irritating. Once the cotton has been positioned, wrap the nails with aluminum foil to keep the cotton balls in place and keep the acetone from evaporating.
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“After 10 to 15 minutes, the polish will come off easily and you shouldn’t need to traumatize the nail with a bunch of additional tools.”
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If you have to use a tool to finish the job, use an orange stick or plastic cuticle pusher instead of metal tools. And if you have to use metal tools, make sure they’re sterilized.
Your nail is finally nude. Now what?
The answer depends, partially, on the condition of your fingernails. If everything looks good, then just carry on moisturizing and applying cuticle oil.
If you’re noticing issues with your nail — like splitting, dryness, white spots or thinning — it’s time to give them some extra TLC. Cut your claws down and keep the moisturizer and cuticle oil coming. You can’t make a nail thicker or fix damage that’s already done, but you can create a more hospitable environment for new growth.
Gel isn’t the healthiest option you have when it comes to nail cosmetics. Dermatologists worry about the UV exposure from the curing lamps — not to mention the tendency of manicurists and DIYers alike to damage the nail during the gel-removal process. There are lots of fast-drying, long-lasting polish options out there that are safer for both your skin and your nails.
If you really gel with gel, make sure to apply sunscreen to your hands before going under the lamp, leave your cuticles alone and moisturize extensively afterward. And when it’s time for your nails to get naked, see a professional or follow proper polish-removal procedure. No picking!
Every woman who cares about her appearance knows how important a manicure is. It's no wonder that more and more women opt for long-lasting UV gel polish, which should look perfect for weeks. Is it always the case? Unfortunately, not. Sometimes, UV gel polish may crack, even though it should stay intact on the nails. In this article, we will answer the question of why UV gel polish cracks.
UV gel
polishThe problem may arise when UV gel polishes are applied too thinly or unevenly. When the coverage with UV gel polish is uneven, areas with a thinner layer may be more prone to breakage and cracking. Therefore, it's essential to ensure an even distribution of UV gel polish across the entire nail surface.
The cause sometimes lies in the preparation of the nail plate itself. Lack of proper buffing of natural nails or residue of oil on them can affect the poor adhesion of UV gel polish, resulting in cracking. It's also important to pay attention to the proper curing of the polish in a UV/LED lamp – both too short and too long curing times can negatively impact the structure and durability of the manicure.
UV gel
polishAnother potential reason is the improper consistency of UV gel polish. A too thick product will be harder to evenly spread and, consequently, more prone to creating tensions that can lead to cracks.
Cracking of UV gel polish can also be caused by bad daily habits and external mechanical loads. UV gel polish, though durable, is not indestructible, and impacts or strong pressure on particularly vulnerable areas (e.g., free edge) often lead to cracking.
The question often arises as to why UV gel polish cracks on nails immediately after application. Here, there can be various reasons – from improperly chosen products, application errors, to improper working conditions (e.g., humidity, temperature).
When we decide to extend our nails, we expect them to look perfect and add a shine to our hands for a long time. Unfortunately, even in this case, there is a risk of cracking. Let's discover the reasons why even the most beautiful UV gel nails can disappoint us.
The basis of every well-done nail extension is a properly placed template. This is a crucial element that determines the shape and durability of the entire structure. If the template is improperly applied – too loose or asymmetrically – it can lead to unwanted tension in the nail structure. As a result, such uneven distribution of forces makes the nails more susceptible to cracking and breaking.
Just like with natural nails, excessive filing of the side edges of extended nails can weaken their structure. It's important to be cautious during the modeling process and not unnecessarily reduce their thickness on the sides. Optimal profiling will not only ensure an aesthetic appearance but also increase the resistance of extended nails to damage.
Proper reinforcement of the stress line, the place subjected to the greatest loads during daily activities, is crucial for the durability of extended nails. Strengthening this point helps distribute the forces acting on the nail, minimizing the risk of cracking. Insufficient reinforcement of this line, as well as improper nail construction – for example, too flat an extension – lead to the creation of a weak point that can result in cracking even with a small amount of pressure or impact.
Avoiding the above-mentioned mistakes requires practice, knowledge, and precision during the nail extension process. Taking care of each stage of application guarantees the durability and beauty of UV gel manicure. Remember that the right technique and following the recommendations of professionals are essential elements on the way to achieving stunning and healthy extended nails.
Everyone dreams of beautiful and healthy nails, which are the hallmark of well-groomed hands. Unfortunately, the problem of nail cracking makes the dream of a perfect manicure seem unrealistic to many. But why does it happen? Understanding the causes of this phenomenon is the first step toward acquiring strong and flexible nails that can withstand the challenges of daily life.
Nails, like any other part of our body, need the right level of nutrients to be healthy and strong. Deficiencies in vitamins and minerals can contribute to the weakening of the nail plate, leading to its brittleness and cracking. Vitamins A, C, D, and E are especially important, as nails become dull and brittle without them. Biotin, also known as vitamin H or B7, is equally essential for maintaining strong nails.
Among minerals, zinc, iron, calcium, and copper play a crucial role. Calcium is responsible for the hardness and resistance of the nail plate, while iron is essential in the process of its construction. Zinc supports cell repair and reduces the risk of cracking, while copper helps increase nail flexibility. Additionally, we must remember the necessary unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), which are vital for maintaining proper hydration levels.
Many people struggling with the problem of brittle nails are unaware that its cause may be related to their health. Diseases such as psoriasis and fungal infections can directly impact the condition of the nails. Psoriasis often manifests as changes on the nail plate, such as indentations or irregular texture, while fungal infections cause thickening, discoloration, and, consequently, cracking.
Nail cracking often results from the action of external factors that we often overlook. Nail biting is an unsightly habit and one of the main enemies of strong nails – it damages their structure and accelerates the cracking process. Similar effects can be caused by direct contact with strong detergents – hence, always remember to wear protective gloves during cleaning.
Proper nail care is of great importance. Excessive filing of natural nails on the sides, i.e., filing the side edges, weakens the nail structure, leading to breakage and cracking. Another factor is mechanical trauma – impacts or crushing can cause pain and long-term changes in the nail structure.
Understanding these factors is fundamental to the path to healthy and strong nails. Both natural and extended nails are susceptible to cracking due to various reasons, such as nutrient deficiencies, improper care, or errors in the UV gel polish application process. Using appropriate techniques and products, careful care, and adherence to a diet rich in vitamins and minerals can significantly reduce the risk of nail cracking. Understanding the impact of external factors and skin and nail diseases on the condition of the nail plate, as well as avoiding mechanical injuries, are crucial for maintaining healthy and beautiful nails.
Remember that attention to detail is the secret to long-term beauty, and healthy nails are a matter of aesthetics and comfort in everyday life
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