Part 1- Types of Shampoo
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Part 2- Surfactants in Shampoo
Part 3- Custom Shampoo
Surfactants in ShampooSurfactants are necessary to remove dirt, oil and product build-up. They are surface-active agents. Surfactants alter and reduce the surface tension allowing for better penetration. They are hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving); they have a water-loving head that is attracted to water and an oil-loving head that is attracted to oil.
Water has an inherent property of surface, a high surface tension. By adding a surfactant, it makes the surface of water more soluble by flattening it out and the surfactant can be used as foaming agent, detergent, emulsification agent and conditioning agent and for solubilizing, depending on the surfactant.
SULFATE SURFACTANTS/CLEANSERS
Sulfate Cleansers can be irritating to the skin. They have high foaming and cleansing actions. Sulfated surfactants are SLS-sodium lauryl sulfate, and ALS-aluminum lauryl sulfate.
SULFATE-FREE SURFACTANTS/CLEANSERS
Sulfate-free cleansers are generally non-irritating and milder than sulfate cleansers.
There are four categories of surfactants.
1. Anionic Surfactants carry a negative charge.
2. Nonionic Surfactants have no charge.
3. Cationic Surfactants carry a positive charge
4. AmphotericSurfactants carry a negative or positive or no charge.
Anionic surfactants have a negative charge to the water-loving head, called hydrophilic. Anionic surfactants perform the highest foaming and cleansing actions. They can also build viscosity. Anionic surfactants may be harsh on the skin and hair. Cold process handmade soap is anionic from the reaction of the fats with sodium hydroxide but cold process soap is not harsh on the skin if there is extra oil in the soap. A lot depends on the formulation and the ingredients in the formulation.
Nonionic surfactants have no charge to the water-loving head. Nonionic surfactants are one of the gentlest surfactants but they produce very little foam. They are usually combined with other surfactants to boost foam. Nonionic can act as solubilizers and assist with dispersing essential oils.
Cationic surfactants have a positive charge to their water-loving head. The positive charge creates adherence to the net negative charge of hair. Cationic surfactants are used in conditioning shampoo and hair conditioner to adhere to the hair and not rinsed off the hair, allowing the conditioner to provide conditioning and leave the hair smooth, soft, silky and with less static electricity. Cationic surfactants are good in formulations for co-wash and 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo. Cationic surfactants do not combine well with anionic surfactants.
Amphoteric surfactants can have a negative or positive charge or no charge depending on the acid or alkaline environment. Amphoteric surfactants are generally used as the primary surfactant in mild shampoo formulations.
Surfactants contain a detergent and water (glycerin can be part of the water). The detergent is the solid matter and referred to as active. The raw material supplier states the active in % for each surfactant. The supplier may state it as actives, active matter, active substances, solids or activity. For example, in decyl glucoside, generally it is 55% active (solid), the remaining is 45% water. I will talk about why understanding the percentage of actives (solids) helps in developing a shampoo formulation in Part 3.
Natural surfactants should be sulfate-free and from renewable plant sources, biodegradable and use processes that are not harmful to humans, animals and the earth. In a shampoo formulation there is usually a combination of surfactants to provide sufficient foam, manageability for the hair and a good feel when shampooing the hair.
These are available to the small manufacturer of natural hair care products have been limited. This is changing and smaller raw material suppliers are offering more surfactants. Here are a few natural surfactants currently available to the small manufacturer. I use these surfactants and others. From my experience, shampoo is one of the most challenging products to formulate. Shampoo performs different depending on the hair type and they are affected by the water used to wash the hair, especially hard water.
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Soap bark, soapwort, agave, sarsaparilla and yucca have been used traditionally to cleanse the hair. These will not produce shampoo consumers are familiar with and are challenging to develop a shampoo formulation. They will produce lather but dont do a good job at cleaning the hair.
Learn all about surfactants and the chemistry of surfactants in our Pro Natural Hair Care Course. This course will teach you in-depth about surfactants and the chemistry of surfactants in course lessons.
Friday, October 20,
Surfactants are ubiquitous and essential in the realm of industrial chemicals. Whether for cleaning agents, emulsifiers, or stabilizers, the surfactant you choose can profoundly impact performance. Read on to find out the key differences between ionic and non-ionic surfactants.
Ionic surfactants are characterized by a molecular structure that includes an ionic polar head as the hydrophilic tail. In particular, anionic surfactants are widely used for household applications because they excel at facilitating the removal of grease, oils, and dirt. However, their strong cleansing power necessitates careful handling, as they can irritate the skin.
On the flip side, non-ionic surfactants are characterized by a non-ionic polar head as the hydrophilic tail. This difference makes them generally suitable for applications where ionic surfactants are not as effective as emulsification and thickening.
Sustainability is a growing concern, and the type of surfactant you choose plays into this. Therefore, selecting eco-friendly products and using the least amount of the most effective surfactant is important to reduce the environmental impact.
The choice between ionic and non-ionic surfactant cleaners comes down to the specific application and, in some cases, a combination is needed for the best performance. If you require an effective, non-ionic surfactant, contact Chemical Products Industries Inc. We offer Aqua-Cleen®, which is a great choice for industrial applications.
Due to their charged nature, ionic surfactants can be reactive and need specific storage conditions to prevent degradation. They can also present risks if they come in direct contact with the skin or eyes, requiring protective measures during handling. Non-ionic surfactants, while milder, still mandate precautions to ensure worker safety and product integrity. Consult Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) and remain updated with industry best practices.
Now that you know the differences between ionic and non-ionic surfactants, youre in a stronger position to make the right choices for your operations.
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